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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.