The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than in the 90s.

A chance encounter on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the course of a teenage Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the capital's buzzing 1990s artistic milieu, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the style editor of the publication i-D.

"That era was the peak of the Young British Artists – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be kindred spirits. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that spontaneity."

Although Enninful appears wistful, he is far from alone. In recent times, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. However since that time, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "I feel, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

A Perceived Regression

This change is hard to ignore: the resurgence of far-right politics, the reaction against so-called "wokeness", and the reassertion of traditional beauty standards. In place of the hope of the previous decade, today a different political personality stands as a possible leader. Even, the British flag, once an symbol of Cool Britannia, has returned as a polarising symbol.

In Enninful's view, the solution has always been to promote culture in all its diversity. This was the core philosophy behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, featuring a wide range of prominent faces from music.

"People with a voice should use it," he asserts, referring to those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain hadn't been a open country, if it did not offer my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this period will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He takes comfort in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They talk about unconscious bias – I had no concept what that was."

The beginnings of his career would define a pioneering career built on fearlessness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His time featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, curvy models, an octogenarian, and individuals from varied communities. Significantly, sales grew.

"To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he explains.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has recently launched his creative company EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since moving on from his previous role. He expresses a desire to continue being a "innovator".

"I constantly interrogate the conventional wisdom. I was brought up in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the lawyers, the leader. Then we came to England, penniless, and I was a minority. I was very shy. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were harassed under the suspicion laws … all that gave me a sense of being between worlds."

Contrary to the caricature of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is softly spoken and radiates serenity. His journey has included its share of hardship, including well-documented battles with depression and addiction.

He has also undergone significant health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I was in such a difficult period for two years, not working, anxious I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to do everything that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

A Foray into Curation

This refusal to fit into a box has led him away from the industry that built his career. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a host of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and highlight those who lacked due recognition at the time.

"Galleries sometimes neglected to shine a light on the most relevant talents because they lacked the traditional credentials," he comments.

This venture itself functions with a different business model, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is one component of a larger creative platform."

An Unstoppable Drive

Today, Enninful operates as one of the world's most influential industry leaders. His path, he believes, is a proof to the power of pursuing your passions.

What would the younger Edward think of the his current self? He chuckles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be proud. In those days I was anti-establishment. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He reflects. "Nothing is assumed. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have counted me out my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve made up my mind to do something."